Kaytee Papusza resides in a post-New York state of mind

Photos courtesy of Kaytee Papusza

Name: Kaytee Papusza
Age: 28

Hometown: Seattle, WA
Current town: San Francisco, CA

Job description: Costume, clothing, and lingerie designer

Bio: Recently launched Papusza Stain, a lingerie line, at Lovefest; collaborated with the likes of Winkel & Balktick and William Etundi

Upcoming projects: Developing a collection entitled Paramicha ("In the language of the gypsies Paramicha means fairytale. The collection is a series of art couture dresses made of tarot cards, fair trade fabrics purchased during my own, and others travels and small charms, bones and bits of earth. I am working on this collection in collaboration with my good friend, couture milliner Katie Burley, who is making couture burkas that are worn with the dresses. The idea is that in covering the mouth and placing tarot cards upon the body, the cards will tell a story. I am trying to convey a message about the repressed state of Romani [gypsy] culture in current society, and to also make a statement about culture clash and how nomads are often seen as misfits in all societies."); other secret projects ("One thing I learned while I was in New York is that you can't trust anyone with creative/intellectual property. Don't tell anyone about your genius until you've had a chance to capture and put it out into the world. It's amazing how quickly good ideas get knocked off.")

Select links: "Channeling Those Crazy '80s Kids" (NY Times); "Papusza Couture at Williamsburg Fashion Weekend" (Time Out NY); "Interview with Kaytee Papusza" (Wearable Art Blog); Papusza on Facebook; Papusza in Birdland blog; papuszacouture.com

You just moved from New York to San Francisco. Describe your current state of mind. 

Right now, I feel very content. I moved to New York a little over four years ago and came back [to the West Coast] this past spring. New York is a really amazing place. And my experience there was one of incredible opportunity. I met the most inspiring people that I’ve ever met in my life…but I’m also really sensitive and pretty laid back. So I guess [that’s] what I’ve been experiencing over the last few months. I’m from Oregon originally; it is where I grew up. When I came back in April, I went to California for a few months and [then to] Seattle by way of Oregon - I felt like it brought me back to this part of myself I had forgotten when I was living in NYC; there are just so many trees everywhere on this coast. People are so laid back and more liberal. The overall mentality of the West Coast just gels with me more. I think being in the city was great for me, to [give] me a sense of direction. [But] it was really nice for me to stop and reflect. I feel at peace. I feel in love….I feel really free; I have the power to do whatever I want to do.

Paramicha Collection (Photographer: Elizabeth Raab;
millinery: Katie Burley; make-up: Chris Milone; hair: Ariane
Garcia; model: Anelisa Durham)

I am leaving Seattle, where I've spent my summer working on Papusza Stain, in two weeks. From here, I got to San Francisco, where I plan to move permanently (I think - but gypsies never really say permanently unless the magic is there). I love the city and am soooo excited to be living and making art there. I had so much fun when I spent some time down there over the spring. I felt like I had found my people, my familiars. I am excited to exist in the wonderland mecca of colorful art that fills that city. The energy is relaxing and the beauty of both the people and the bay in the land is very inspiring for me. 

How did you become interested in clothes? 

I’ve always been designing since I was a little girl. My mother was a seamstress. I was always sifting through her collections when I was young. I’ve always been a collector of vintage clothing ever since I was 10 or 11 years old - a little Wednesday Addams, with my little black dresses, kind of a strange child. I studied the vintage pieces a lot, the construction, and I really learned how well-made clothes fit together. When I was in junior high school, I started making my own clothes, cutting them out, and reconstructing the pieces. I think that sort of influenced me. And I studied anthropology in college. I didn’t know what I necessarily wanted to do. I didn’t really want to go to art school. If I hadn’t studied anthropology, I would have studied costuming. At the time, I was focusing more on political issues and human rights, and realized it was too depressing for me. As a means of creative expression fused with my love of clothing I began styling and making pieces, just messing around with things. I started using taxidermy, as well as other unconventional materials, in my work, and I started making really conceptual collections. I would have these dreams about clothing, beautiful, beautiful clothing. And I felt like I had to make them. I moved to New York after doing my couture in Seattle, and all of these things happened. I got to work with really awesome people whose work I really admire, like: Will Etundi; Narcissister; Ali Luminescent; and Rachel Singer. My work started really getting noticed, but the weirder and artier it was, the more people to like it. New York put me on the right path and compelled me to follow my dreams, in a sense. Receiving so much recognition in that city for my talent really helped me to realize my purpose as a creator. 

What's your mission as a designer? 

To make clothing that compels people to think and pushes boundaries. I would like to continue making couture collections that merge fashion and cultural anthropology in a way that helps me remind people of the way things where done when we lived in a society that values the idea of the artisan.

Short term, I am focusing on creating my upcycled vintage lingerie line, Papusza Stain, and my hand-dyed tights line, Papusza Limbs. Find pieces from both of these collections on my etsy. I have been trying to come down a bit from making costume, couture and wearable art pieces because I am trying to reach a broader market. The tights and lingerie are great because they are at a very affordable price point, yet they maintain my aesthetic. I especially feel good about the vintage pieces because it is part of the green fashion movement and living in New York, I got so fed up with how wasteful the fashion industry is. I really value the recycling aspect.

Long term, I want to be able to make the things I dream about, a prospect that was within my grasp and relatively economical while I was freelancing in New York. That said, New York did not appease many of my other lifestyle desires, and my love of nature propelled me to leave. I used to think I wanted fame but I no longer desire that. I just want to live a comfortable life among good people, creating the things that make me feel happy and alive. 

Have you ever come across anything that was too over the top for you? 

I don’t really think about things in that way. I definitely have encountered that critique from people before. It’s my art, it’s my sculpture, so I don’t really think whether it’s over the top or not over the top at all.

Paramicha collection

What kind of advice would you give to beginning designers? 

Be open to things that are outside of the mainstream. Know trends, and know what’s going on, but think outside of the mainstream fashion world. It’ll make you that much more interesting. And also be mindful of where and how your things are being made, [to] not to be wasteful and not make things more [cheaply] so that you can make more money. Make things right. Be an artist about it. You’re competing with the rest of the fashion world, which is kind of an ugly beast.

It has become a rather exploitative industry that is all about money. Quality and originality are undervalued. Trends are disposable and everything seems very homogenized. What saddens me the most is how things are made - in factories, usually overseas. The art of fashion is becoming lost... the anthropology behind the things in which we adorn our bodies with is disintegrating.

On the other hand I am happy to see the revolt against the industry. There are lots of amazing indie designers out there that are hand making creative pieces. I hope the industry keeps moving in the more progressive direction, although I am aware that it is an industry dominated by corporation in this day and age, and so my notion that progression will be fully embodied is shattered by skepticism. 

What's are some misconceptions about what you do? 

People tend to categorize my work as being "goth" or "dark" a lot. I think people have this idea that I must be this really docile, gothy chick, and that I sleep in a coffin or something. That is a total misconception, and in reality I think most people find me to be a pretty light and happy person. My work is really dark because I use it as a tool for self-reflection, and a vessel for my demons so that I don't have to let that darkness come out in my everyday life all the time, as it is overwhelming when it's not channeled correctly. Making art is a crucial tool that I use to allow me to live a content and balanced existence. Making art for me is a tool of expression, not an attempt to make my work fit certain style stereotypes. I guess people feel the need to pigeonhole things. 

What’s your idea of happiness? 

My idea of happiness is having property near a city, somewhere beautiful, for me, on West Coast. Probably San Francisco. About an hour away on the train. Having some place quiet or spiritual, [and] beautiful, awesome, creative people who can make stuff with me. Having the freedom to travel when I want to. And having the ability to grow my own food and be self-sufficient - doing things the way you want to do things before the world got so overwhelmed by [commercialism]. 

What’s a moment that you would change if you could? 

When I went to Iceland to do a show, Bjork, one of my greatest muses, was on the flight back. She had her kid with her and they were flying coach. I so wanted to talk to her, but was afraid... This was not long after her interaction with the tabloids when she hit a paparazzi who was bugging her and her daughter. So I didn't approach her. I had some beautiful jewelry my friend had made, to go with my collection in my carry on. I asked a skeptical, Icelandic stewardess to do it for me. She tried haphazardly, and returned the gift a few minutes later saying Bjork doesn't accept gifts. Wish I woulda tried myself...

Paramicha collection

What's overrated? 

Probably Lady Gaga. 

What's underrated? 

I think we live in a society where people think about what they want, and don't think about what they [have]. 

What qualities do you admire most and least in a person? 

I admire people who do their own thing, but don't try to tell other people what to do. And at the same time, don't let [other people] tell them what to do. I admire kindness, [and] being upfront and genuine. I admire sensitivity and being able to dream and see beauty.

I don't like people who are overbearing. I don't like people who lie...I don't like superficiality. 

What’s love? 

Love is being in the moment and hearing other people’s stories. Being who you are and that’s okay. Saying what you need to say. Admiring [your significant other] and being inspired…but also [helping he/she become] a better person.

New line, Papusza Stain (Photographer: Gemma Fleming)

What do your parents think about what you do? 

My mom is definitely very supportive; my mom is more of an artist than my dad. She’s a seamstress, as well. I think he wants me to have more of a plan. I think my father does care but he can be a bit filtered. 

What’s difficult? 

Trying not to get too caught up in what’s happening next and seeing one thing at a time. I think that’s what I have a hard time with. I think I get really manic when I’m in a certain creative state. I wish there were 24 more hours every day, because I don’t want to die before I do it all.